When Japanese Workwear Inspires Haute Couture

From Martin Margiela to Yohji Yamamoto, and more recently Anrealage, some of fashion’s biggest names have drawn inspiration from an unexpected source: Japanese construction workers. More than just a work uniform, Japanese workwear distinctive style has become a genuine reference point in the fashion world.

The Iconic Japanese workwear Pieces

The Tobi Pants of the sky builders

Tobi Shokunin, literally “sky builders,” are highly specialized construction workers who operate on scaffolding and tall buildings. Their name derives from “tobi,” a raptor bird common in Japan that, like them, spends more time in the air than on the ground. These construction artisans are instantly recognizable thanks to their iconic uniform, whose unique aesthetics stem directly from functional necessities.

The most characteristic element of their uniform is undoubtedly the “Tobi” pants. These pants feature several distinct characteristics:

• An extremely loose cut down to the knees, abruptly narrowing at the calves
• A functional design allowing great freedom of movement on scaffolding
• Effective protection against welding sparks
• The ability to serve as a natural wind indicator thanks to their volume
• A design that allows them to be easily tucked into boots

The Jika-Tabi Boots

Jika-Tabi are outdoor shoes that have been used and loved by people in Japan since the Edo period. Since then, they have built up a culture of their own. Their ancestors, the Kawa-Tabi where loved by craftsmen as they grabbed onto the ground as you walked, making it possible for these workers to do more detailed work.

They allowed for the same agility as when you were barefoot, while also providing protection for your feet. As the Kawa-Tabi were made of leather, they had the downside that you were unable to wash them, so the material to make Tabi was changed to the cheap and washable cotton.

Jika-Tabi boots, with their emblematic split-toe design, are more than just an aesthetic choice. This unique conception offers:

• Better stability when climbing ladders
• Enhanced grip on scaffolding
• Optimal balance at height

The Fan Jacket

The latest innovation in Japanese workwear is the ventilated jacket developed by Kuchofuku (空調服™). Created by Ichigaya Hiroshi, a former Sony engineer and founder of Kuchofuku Co., Ltd., this jacket addresses the extreme weather conditions of Japanese summers, characterized by intense heat and humidity.

The principle is ingenious: fans integrated into the back of the jacket draw in outside air, facilitating sweat evaporation and creating a natural cooling effect. This innovation has recently caught the fashion world’s attention, leading to a notable collaboration with avant-garde brand Anrealage for their SS25 collection “WIND”.

From Functionality to Fashion

Founded in 1959, and headquartered in Okayama, Toraichi have been the OG members of the workwear scene. Each year, Toraichi releases a catalog featuring an entire section dedicated to “Tobi” pants, testament to the endurance and importance of this garment in Japanese culture. The influence of Tobi Shokunin on contemporary fashion, perfectly illustrates how workwear, designed for functionality, can transcend its initial purpose to become a major source of inspiration in fashion.

The recent collaboration between Kuchofuku and Anrealage showcases how traditional workwear continues to evolve and inspire. By incorporating innovative cooling technology into fashion-forward designs, this partnership represents the perfect fusion of functionality and style that has always characterized Japanese workwear.

Cover picture courtesy of Anrealage