BIÉDE: Redefining Fashion to Navigate a Complex World

BIÉDE isn’t just a fashion brand; it’s a manifesto woven into fabric. With a mission to create “uniforms for people living in a complex world,” this Tokyo-based label, run by agency KLEINSTEIN in the iconic Aoyama district, has quickly established itself as both mysterious and globally-minded.

Founded by an international, anonymous team, BIÉDE aims to fill gaps in the market with “something that feels like it should exist, but doesn’t—yet.” No gender labels, no rigid categories—just pieces that challenge norms and elevate craftsmanship.

Taking inspiration from the mathematical symbol ∉ (not an element of), BIÉDE positions itself in the space between belonging and non-belonging. Even the brand’s name, derived from the Chinese phrase “別的,” translates to “something different.” And BIÉDE delivers on that promise, consistently.

An Aesthetic Without Borders

BIÉDE’s design philosophy goes beyond Japanese style; it’s informed by a global perspective. Frequent travels from 2015 to 2020 revealed something crucial to the founders: the “norms” of one city often feel foreign in another.

This awareness shapes BIÉDE’s aesthetic—a label for those living between worlds, exploring the complexities of modern life. While Google Maps can offer virtual glimpses, BIÉDE knows that nothing compares to experiencing a place firsthand.

Each BIÉDE collection is born from collaborative discussions between the brand’s design team and KLEINSTEIN. Keywords and ideas evolve into intricate, poetic narratives that ground each piece. In a world that often values surface, BIÉDE ensures that every element has depth and meaning.

Sharp Lines, Blurred Boundaries

BIÉDE’s latest collection, Swimming Pool, questions the nature of reality. Set against the stark geometry of the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, designed by Fumihiko Maki (architect of the former World Trade Center in NYC), this collection mixes dream and reality, blending architecture with fashion.

The experience is heightened by a haunting rendition of Bach’s Prelude from Cello Suite No.1 by cellist Yuya Mizuno, adapted by Kyoto-based artist Lyo Taniguchi. BIÉDE’s take on the familiar becomes a surreal exploration of existence.

“What’s intriguing about Bach’s music is how few original manuscripts exist. We mostly have third-party transcriptions, so we don’t really know if we’re hearing it as Bach intended,” the BIÉDE team muses. “Imagine if AI had existed in Bach’s time—what would his music sound like?”

This same spirit of exploration and rediscovery infuses BIÉDE’s designs. Take the KIKA jacket, which translates as “geometry.” Inspired by the formal frock coats of the 18th–20th centuries, it has been reimagined with BIÉDE’s signature angular lines, making it genderless and versatile. Wear it open for a casual look, or buttoned up for a sleek, sharp style—both a nod to the classic gakuran uniform.

The RITA incense holder is another statement piece. With 14 sculpted sides, it blurs the boundary between art and utility, inspired by elements from Buddhist lanterns and the enigmatic “Blue Box” in Mulholland Drive. Holding it feels like holding a gateway to another dimension with the BIÉDE’s UMEGAE insence created in collaboration with Kyoto’s Shoeido.

Beyond Categories: A Journey of Self-Rediscovery

In an unexpected twist, BIÉDE has ventured into swimwear, inspired by a team member’s journey of self-discovery through swimming—a skill learned via YouTube, now perfected to the point of completing 1 km in 30 minutes. This journey of transformation reflects BIÉDE’s ethos: that growth, both physical and mental, can lead to fresh perspectives on personal style. “We wanted to explore how embracing both body and mind can create a new approach to fashion,” the team explains.

In BIÉDE’s universe, you’ll frequently encounter a “graceful, cat-like character” who shifts between human and feline forms. This character embodies the brand’s invitation to explore fluid identities. “Our aim is to create pieces that highlight, rather than overshadow, individuality,” says BIÉDE.

The Neko bag, crafted from premium cowhide leather with subtle cat ear shapes, epitomizes this ideal. It’s a genderless accessory that blends playfulness with elegance, versatile enough for any setting and any self.

BIÉDE is more than just a fashion label; it’s an experience—a portal to new perspectives and worlds. With every piece, BIÉDE encourages you to transcend the ordinary, step into different realms, and view fashion as an extension of self—a journey into expression and identity.

Title photo credits: Design: BIÉDE
Creative Direction / Styling : KLEINSTEIN
Photographer: Tsukasa Kudo